With stars in my eyes, I bring you the verdict of my latest jewelry investigation. I was intrigued by the dazzling array of gemstones offered by Gemmyo in their collections. Who sources these gems? Who designs and imagines the Maison’s collections?
Discover the fascinating interview I conducted with a solid gold witness, enchanted by beauty and captivated by gemstones from a young age, the Director of Design and Gemmology Operations at Gemmyo, Alexis Coin.
How did you get into gemstones as a child? What is your first jewelry memory?
Originally, I wanted to work in fashion. I’ve always been drawn to beauty, to things that are opulent and shiny. My mother is of Egyptian origin, so gold and jewelry culture is very important. I never saw her without jewelry. I always wanted to understand how they were made. When I was young, I used to make small bracelets. As I grew up, I became passionate about history. I discovered the treasures of various European crowns, which continue to fascinate me to this day. I decided that’s what I wanted to do. I had two dreams: either I would become President of the Republic or work in jewelry. I chose jewelry—easier and more accessible, as you would agree!
Can you introduce yourself and tell us about your background for those who don’t know you yet?
I focused on jewelry from a young age. At 14, I went to study Art & Techniques of Jewelry in central France. I then pursued a BMA, a diploma in arts and crafts. These studies delve deeply into craftsmanship and art history from Prehistory to the present day. Art history was my favorite subject. My thesis was on grafts, in art and medicine, creating a collection around this theme.
During my studies, I met many external experts, including a gemmologist who introduced us to his role as a gemstone buyer. I was captivated. I went without hesitation to the south of France, to Monaco, to study gemmology. I chose it because it took us to the mines, which is extremely rare! I was able to go on-site, to Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and Thailand. I finished the school, enchanted by the stones, but without losing sight of jewelry…
Returning to Paris, I joined Gemmyo at 20 as a sales advisor. It was a real love at first sight! I knew the Maison very well, having followed it since its beginnings. It was much criticized at the time, but I admired their audacity in challenging the codes of Place Vendôme. I liked the image; everything was to be done, and I felt I had made the right choice. After some time in the boutique, I took on the role of sourcing gemstones. Initially, I juggled these two roles.
Over the years, the volume increased, and I devoted all my time to gemstones and gradually took the reins of production. A new, exciting role in constant contact with the workshops. It’s a real joy to see the pieces we imagined come to life!
Time flies, and a new era at Gemmyo begins: the Creative Director leaves the Maison. After some discussions with the founders, I took over the design of the Maison. To this day, I am fortunate to fully express my creativity by imagining and designing the most beautiful jewelry for the Maison. A crazy adventure!
Gemmologist and Design Head at Gemmyo, tell us about these two worlds…
Every jewelry house operates differently. Some have a gemstone department that reports directly to the sales department because the head of that department is passionate about stones and handles the design. Others have a gemstone department and a studio that work together, with the artistic director making the final decisions. Personally, I believe there’s nothing better than having someone passionate about gemstones and jewelry leading the design, as it creates more coherence and is quicker and more responsive. I know which stones to use, which stones offer the best value for money for a particular piece, and what dimensions are best. I seek advice from industry professionals.
Gemmyo offers many diamonds but is known for its colored stones. It’s important to stand out by offering different stones and introducing new ones. For me, design goes hand in hand with stones. I don’t see it as having two roles; one complements the other, like a bridge.
I believe this is what allows us to remain innovative in our approach to stones. We go off the beaten path. There’s more to stones than just the big precious ones; there are so many stones and possibilities. I recently saw that some houses are using frosted rock crystal in their high jewelry collections. It’s not considered a precious material, but these houses see the stone as serving the design.
We do a lot of testing. Once the design is approved, we have lengthy discussions with the workshop. The first version is often very different from what we imagined, but that’s part of the process. It’s crucial to get the right dimensions, setting, polishing, and craftsmanship, to decide on the color, type of grain, whether to refine or enlarge the piece… Product development is no longer strictly design; it’s almost engineering. It must be as close to the drawing as possible. Approximation isn’t an option; we must aim for precision.
What are your sources of inspiration? I hear that you and Stéphane Bern share a passion for the history of European royal families…
What inspires me is history and heritage within history, that of a country, culture, or civilization… I’m very driven by architecture and objects. I always stop at an object that piques my curiosity. When I pass by a monument, I touch the wall because the material intrigues me. Objects and materials fascinate me; seeing tiles, their patterns, silks… Recently, I admired silks ordered by Napoleon to revive the Lyonnais industry during an exhibition at Versailles. I discovered a world of patterns and was stunned by the quality of the silk work and the way colors stand out. This inspired me for an upcoming collection…
Heritage, especially in a country like France, offers a wealth of inspiration for developing new jewelry pieces and collections. I’m very happy that one of the pillars of inspiration at Gemmyo is architecture.
My favorite museum in Paris is, unsurprisingly, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs for its 1001 objects and materials that feed my insatiable appetite for design. I highly recommend you go admire their permanent jewelry collections!
Any ideas on upcoming trends in gemstones? If you had to highlight an underrated stone, which one would you choose? Why?
I would choose green beryl. It reminds me of emerald but is completely different. It comes in very vivid green hues as well as softer, slightly almond tones.
As for trends, I think they’re returning to colored sapphires, to colored stones in general. I’m thinking of orange, sunset hues, typically what the Umba sapphire offers. Houses and clients are moving away from white, blue, and red towards green, yellow, and orange, bolder shades. Traditional patterns and styles are giving way to more creativity. We are in an era of jewelry that features very round and organic shapes. There’s a desire to break angles, eliminate flatness, and enhance relief. The trend is moving away from traditional codes established over the past 20 years in Europe. This market is radically different from the foreign market. For example, there is a real contrast between the English and French markets. Across the channel, jewelry is more creative and modern. In France, we wear pieces that use very old setting techniques on traditionally cut stones, highlighted by contemporary designs and lacquer… French jewelry is creative but likes to revisit its classics. The French client doesn’t like daring creations. They prefer acquiring pieces they can wear for life. They want reassurance in wearing a piece of jewelry. This clientele isn’t interested in haute couture but rather in prêt-à-porter in their approach to jewelry. I think French clients will gradually move towards more modern creations, moving away from classics, but it will take time… In a few years, I hope bolder jewelry will become the norm!
Bonus Question! Your multifaceted portrait…
If I were…
A piece of jewelry, I would be a brooch.
A gemstone, I would be a green sapphire—traditional yet creative!
A dish, I would be a falafel! Its flavors remind me of my childhood and origins.
An art object, I would be the gilded Élysée lamp designed by architect Marc Held for its very industrial style.
A summer destination, I’d love to return to Berlin!
A castle, Chambord, without hesitation. It’s my favorite; I find it exceptional and impressive, perfectly showcasing the grandeur of our architecture.
A muse, Dalida! She’s an incredible artist who performs her songs as well as she sings them! She has a theatrical side that fascinates me; she adapted to different eras. She was a free, open, and brilliant woman.
No Comments